Dunlap wood lathe manual

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Catalogs, manuals and any other literature that is available on this site is made available for a historical record only. Please remember that safety standards have changed over the years and information in old manuals as well as the old machines themselves may not meet modern standards. It is up to the individual user to use good judgment and to safely operate old machinery.

The VintageMachinery. About Us. Discussion Forum. Machine Info. Photo Index. Support Vintage Machinery. Jeuck, and was forwarded to us by Ashley Kennedy. Catalog E , Spring Dunlap Our purpose is to provide information about vintage machinery that is generally difficult to locate. Catalogs, manuals and any other literature that is available on this site is made available for a historical record only.

Please remember that safety standards have changed over the years and information in old manuals as well as the old machines themselves may not meet modern standards. It is up to the individual user to use good judgment and to safely operate old machinery. The VintageMachinery. About Us. Discussion Forum. Machine Info. I slowly took the motor apart, making sure to take many pictures along the way so I had plenty of reference later on if I ever got stuck during the reassembly. The bearings felt perfectly fine, with no slop or play, so I decided to just clean them out and repack them with lithium grease.

The metal band that the name plate was a connected to was a mess, so I masked off the name plate, lightly sanded the metal band, and painted it with a can of stainless steel paint. I played it extra safe, using only warm soapy water to scrub away the dirt and grime.

I finished up by polishing it with a little paste wax to add back some luster. After a few hours of work, it sure looks a whole lot better! I also replaced the ungrounded cord with an old computer cable that I had stowed away in my desk. When I bought the lathe, it came mounted to an OSB cart, which was quite sturdy but not very pretty.

Being a woodworker, I wanted to change that. We recently repaired and partially rebuilt a dining table, so I had a large plate of solid Red Oak in the corner of the shop. I cut it down to the correct size, sent it through the widebelt sander to remove the old finish, routed a nice detail on the edges, and sprayed on a few coats of lacquer. I then mounted the lathe and the motor, replaced the V-belt with a link belt, and called the project done! A few weeks later, I purchased a cheap set of lathe tools off Craigslist and decided to make a nice holder for them so that they would be mounted within easy reach.

Using more of the salvaged dining table, I fabricated a simple yet secure tool holder. After using the lathe a few times, I was not liking the mechanics of turning the motor on and off. The previous owner had the switch on the back side of the motor, which was the safest location but not at all convenient.

I mounted the switch on the front, but it was not safe at all since your hand would be right near the belt. I needed to change that right away. My solution was to run the power cord into a light switch mounted on the back right corner of the lathe plate. Now, in order to turn the lathe on, the user will be far away from the spinning head and belt.

In the two months since the lathe has been functional, we have turned half a dozen items and found the cheap lathe tools woefully lacking. The metal is as soft as can be and we can barely turn a soft piece of pine before it becomes too dull to use…so frustrating!

What a world of difference! As I originally stated, this lathe purchase was initiated by the request of my oldest son. As soon as the weather allowed, I brought the lathe home and we began working on projects. Here he is final sanding his first light saber handle. Here is my youngest also turning a light saber handle am I sensing a theme here? The small size, relatively low power, and inherent limitations of the lathe have made it a great starter machine for us to learn on.

We have all been enjoying it enough that I think it will stay a permanent fixture in our work shop! This entry was posted on Monday, April 4th, at pm and is filed under Salvage - Restoration. Instead of a central foot, the cross-braced bed was deepened in section over its central portion. Craftsman 6-inch x inch wood-turning lathe of - this inexpensive model remained in the lists until Unlike the earlier 9-inch lathe, with its ball-bearing headstock, this model made do with cheap "Oilite" porous-bronze bushes.

However, the spindle was bored hollow, took a number 1 Morse-taper centre and could be fitted with a faceplate on its left-hand end for large-capacity bowl turning.. Unfortunately, the ring of 60 indexing holes on the headstock pulley was missing and the bed had lost its mid-way foot. However and rather surprisingly the tailstock could be set over for taper turning and a limited range of accessories - a compound slide rest, 3 and 4 jaw chucks and a fixed steady - was available to convert it into a metal-turning lathe.

The Craftsman 9-inch lathe fitted for metal turning with a speed countershaft unit, compound slide rest and 4-jaw chuck. The Universal was the best wood-turning lathe to be offered by Sears, Roebuck during the s and designed by Atlas to be not only a very strong machine it weighed lbs but also the basis upon which the Craftsman backgeared and screwcutting metal-turning lathe would be constructed.

For more details of contemporary Atlas lathes, especially the basic models on which, in turn, the Craftsman wood-turning lathe was based, click here. The Universal could also be converted, by the addition of various parts, to a proper backgeared and screwcutting metal lathe, the makers claiming that: It grows with your shop!

It actually gives you two lathes in one. The had a spindle 1. Both models had a spindle threaded left-hand on the outboard end intended for large-diameter bowl turning - though strangely no accessory kit was offered to facilitate this. Although the outboard spindle was listed as having a No. All models were fitted with a balanced 4-step cast-iron V-belt pulley with a ring of 60 indexing holes The tailstock - modelled on metal-lathe practice - could be set over for taper turning and was fitted with a No.

At some point during the ball-bearing model changed over to sealed ball races - with an SKF cartridge type being the selected version - yet, oddly, the headstock-mounted oil cups were still retained, though they had no connection to the bearings. Whilst the earlier models had a speed range driven directly from the electric motor of to r. The Universal was available until , when it was replaced in the by a lighter and inferior inch model illustrated here. This lathe, which was rather more substantially built and better specified than previous "mid-range" Craftsman models, was listed for only two years - and - and was unusual in having raised bedways which were semi-circular in section.

The ball bearing, No. The heavily-built tailstock could not be set over, but was given a No. This model retained the bed of the earlier 9-inch lathe but was fitted with an improved headstock with a hinge-up guard over the 4-step V-pulley and a much heavier tailstock that could be set over for taper turning - useful when the lathe was fitted with metal-turning attachments. The spindle, which still ran on plain and inexpensive "Oilite" bearings, had 4 speeds from to rpm - or, if the optional countershaft was used, 16 speeds from to a ludicrous from the point of view of bearing wear rpm.

The headstock spindle, which was threaded at both ends, ran in the by-now-familiar and sealed-for-life SKF ball bearings - and featured a cast-in guard over the front of the headstock belt run.

The model number associated with the machine above was New for was the tiny 5-inch swing by 12 inches between centres "Junior" lathe. The only real change for the season was the introduction of a semi-enclosed headstock for the 8-inch Companion lathe - and the first hints of ornamental styling in the "streamline" flashes on each side of the headstock and tailstock.